I remember the first time I owned a bird. I was a kid, and obviously, I didn't really know how to take care of two budgies (your common parakeets), and my parents really didn't either. Of course, we didn't have a computer at the time, or anyone who was knowledgeable and could tell us exactly what we needed to do to really take care of them. I can only imagine how much worse it would have been if we'd had birds that weren't suitable for beginner owners, like Macaws, or African Greys.
Since we just finished our bird section in Small Animal Science and I've gained a vast amount of knowledge to add to my repertoire of animal care, I figured I'd share it with you guys, to help any of you out. For now I'll just post a general bird care sheet, with the things that pretty much apply to every bird species. However, if you guys have any questions, especially relating to some of the more common species, I can post individual care sheets for them, just answer some questions, or even point you in the right direction if I don't know. Just hope this helps all of the bird owners out there!
General Avian CareMost birds need many of the same things when it comes to their daily care.
Environment and Enrichment: Most of them needs cages in which they can move around and fly a little and these cages should never be round, as it gives the bird nowhere to hide and feel safe. They should be kept in rooms (or aviaries, if their species type demands a larger area) which will stay at as constant a temperature as possible and which matches their environment in the wild. They need appropriate bedding, like newspaper, to line the bottom of their cages. This will also help enable owners to tell if their birds are getting sick, if the bedding is changed daily – more liquid droppings in a bird that normally has solid droppings indicate a change that should be monitored, and the bird may need the care of a veterinarian. Their cages or aviaries need to be made of sturdy materials (like stainless steel, for smaller species and chain link for larger) that they will not be able to break, and each species will vary in this. There are usually very sturdy, safe cages available at your local pet store for the smaller birds. They should be given appropriate toys, and occasionally some natural sticks or branches to enrich their environment and stimulate their minds. Some birds will especially need time out of their enclosures, and will need to interact more with other birds or with their people.
Bird owners should always be wary of placing their bids’ cages in the same room as a ceiling fan, or where air currents will be regularly stirred up. These drafts can be detrimental to the bird’s health, so they should really be placed in a room where there will be no drafts. In addition, fumes tend to bother them immensely, especially those from Teflon cookware, PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene, coating on curling irons and other objects which heat up), Room sprays (like Febreeze), cleaners, smoke, scented oils, candles, incense, and self-cleaning ovens. In addition, if they are allowed to fly around freely in a room, they should be kept away from windows and mirrors, lest they fly into them and injure themselves. In addition, be sure to purchase appropriate perches for your birds size. It is recommended that these NEVER be completely wrapped in sandpaper or another rough material like that. Though it will help wear down their claws so that they don't have to be clipped as often, the sandpaper will irritate their feet and can cause bumble foot (a very uncomfortable condition often seen in other cage-dwelling animals, rodents in particular) or worse injuries. If you do get perches with sandpaper, be sure it is only along the bottom of the perch, were the bird's feet will not rest.
Nutrition: Most birds should start with a high quality pellet diet, which can usually be found at any local pet store. You can additionally supplement other items into their food for variety and enrichment, so long as it is safe. Most fruits are safe to supplement, but be careful and only give a little as a treat every once in a while. Birds should only be given certain vegetables and greens like chickweed, dandelion leaves, carrot tops, kale, and spinach, as long as they are in minimal amounts. They should
NEVER be given
lettuce. Cheese and cooked eggs can also be provided. Fresh water should always be provided daily, either in sipper bottles or in a dish that you clean carefully and regularly. Generally birds will tend to mess their water a little, either by bathing in it or otherwise. If it is not kept clean, bacteria and other organisms will begin to grow in it and can make the bird sick.
Calcium must usually be supplemented in the form of a cuttlebone (which you can find at any pet store and can be hung on the side of the cage) or in large mineral blocks for larger birds. Seeds are also usually supplemented, and they can be moistened and allowed to germinate a little to give the birds extra protein (which is especially helpful and necessary if they are nurturing young). Some seeds that are good to supplement are cereal seeds (canary seed, millet, corn, and dehusked oat kernels) and oil seeds (sunflower, peanuts, safflower, pine nuts, rape, maw, niger, and linseed).
Maintenance: Other than their dietary and environmental needs, birds are generally easy to maintain. They can be micro-chipped like dogs and cats, in case they get loose and need to be identified. Or they can be banded, which has the same purpose as a microchip, but a colorful band is placed around one leg, and the band has a special number on it to identify the bird. Their beaks may need to be trimmed occasionally if they don’t have any toys, branches, or a cuttlebone to chew on, and if their nails get excessively long and sharp, they might need to be trimmed for your comfort and theirs. If you intend to let them out of their cages (and out of cage time is recommended for most species) their wings do need to be trimmed on the very edge feathers (or primaries), to prevent them from gaining height when they fly. Most birds that will interact with you like to sit on fingers or near you, but don’t let them sit on your shoulder or head regularly. Being the highest is how they determine who’s “the boss” and if they think they’re in charge, they will start having behavioral problems like biting. This will not totally inhibit all flight, but they will have to stay lower to the ground and it makes them easier to catch should they get away. Birds usually molt (shed old feathers and grow new ones) a few times each year, so their wings should be trimmed at least this often.
Diseases and Parasites: Like all animals, birds are susceptible to certain diseases and parasites.
· Hypovitaminosis: If they are not fed a variety of seeds along with high quality pellets, they may get this.
· Aspergillus sp.: A bacteria of the lungs that causes pneumonia. This is generally more of a risk to birds in outdoor aviaries, or wild birds
· Feather Picking: While not a disease technically, it is a common behavior that denotes stress, boredom, and sometimes illness. When a bird has signs of feather loss everywhere except for the head, they have been mutilating themselves, most likely out of boredom or stress. This can be corrected by social stimulation with the owner or other birds, mental stimulation with toys, and out of cage time. However, if feathers are also missing from the head and the bird is solitary in its cage, it is likely a viral problem and you should consult your veterinarian.
· Trauma: Most often seen resulting from injuries involving windows and mirrors in captive birds.
· Dystocia: Some female birds have difficulty laying eggs (fertilized or unfertilized) and this is called dystocia, or “egg binding”. Usually they need to be taken to a veterinarian in order to fix the problem otherwise it could prove fatal.
· Heavy Metal Toxicosis: Birds can be poisoned from some metals in their cages and toys because they tend to chew on them. Be sure to avoid getting cages or toys that have either zinc or lead in them.
· Viruses: Birds are susceptible to several viruses, one that does cause feather loss on the body, including the head. However, there is one in particular which is zoonotic (affects other species, including humans.) Chlamydiosis is a respiratory disease that can be spread to humans. It is commonly called “parrot fever” and it can pass between species through secretions in saliva and nasal discharge. So, it is important never to kiss your bird on the mouth/head area.
· Ectoparasites: Most birds tend to be susceptible to mites, especially if they go outside with you a great deal, or live in outside aviaries. Mites are big enough to see with the unaided eye, and they are usually red or dark colored and they are easy to see crawling on their feathers. They cause an itching sensation and the bird will tend to pick at their bodies with their claws or beaks to relieve it. Other than mites, there are other ectoparasites that can generally be seen on the bird, but if you see them scratching excessively, a trip to your veterinarian can’t hurt.
· Birds are also susceptible to inner parasites like giardia, a form of coccidia, and several blood parasites and intestinal parasites like roundworms and whipworms.
All in all, if your bird’s behavior or stool is not normal, then a trip to the vet might be needed. Birds tend to try and hide signs of illness, because in the wilderness if they show signs of weakness it makes them a target for predators. At the first sign of irregularity, the owner should be aware and ready to act if the problem continues longer than a day.
Again, if you have any questions on specific species, feel free to ask. For sure, I should be able to answer most questions concerning: Budgerigars ("Budgies", "Parakeets"), Cockatiels, Canaries, Society Finches, Lovebirds, African Greys, Some Cockatoos (Goffin's, in particular), Indian Ring-Necked Parakeets, Some Conures (Nanday, in particular), Macaws (both regular and Hyacinth), and Lorikeets. Everything else, I'll do my best to answer, as again, they should be comparable to at least one of the species I've already listed.
If this topic gets enough interest, I may also include the sheets I'll be making for reptiles and herps. We haven't finished that section yet, but let me know if you guys would appreciate that as well.
